Paindane Beach (Inhambane area) toVilanculos via Morrungulo 31st July – 6th August

It didn’t take us long to pack up and we were soon happily on our way. Everybody talks about bent cops that pull you over and make any excuse to ‘fine’ you………well we have been pulled over about seven times and each time Lionel sticks on his indicators and gently pulls off to stop exactly where indicated by officials with guns and uniforms. Here we go, I think, how much is this going to cost? Huh, the minute we get to snails pace, they take one look at us, and wave us through!!!!! It must be Lionel’s grey hair that they see,…… of course the beautiful blonde in the seat next to him, must also soften their hearts! I must confess to feeling a bit ‘knarked’,………. do they think that we are too OLD to cause any trouble!?

We arrived at Morrungulo campsite and were pleased to see grassed, shady sites right on a beautiful beach,…… flushing loos and hot water, what more could a body want? We had asked for 2 nights but ended up there for four. Lionel caught his first fish off the beach, (a kingfish) and cooked it for lunch. This is the first place that, while we were camping, we didn’t have people trying to sell us their wares or produce. We have met some amazing and friendly people while camping. A couple from Germany, in Bilene, who introduced, and bought us the freshly baked rolls that are available anywhere you go…….. The Britz’s (from Hillcrest, Natal) in Morrungulo even greased the break system of our van for us, and then, when we left today, presented us with the grease gun and grease. They reckoned that our need of it was greater than theirs……..what a fabulous gesture!!!

While in Morrungulo we took a 60km day drive (on 4x4 track) to Pomene, we left at 8am and had breakfast at Pomene Lodge at 10am. What a beautiful and isolated spot it is in ……the azure lagoon on the one side of the Lodge and the turquoise sea on the other.

Lionel had been told about pothole’s the size of craters, on the first 60km of our 200km drive to Vilanculos, so no problem, we would take another route! We understood that it would be a sand road but no pesky potholes. We set off and before we knew it we were on a track where, at times, I had to close windows so that my face wouldn’t get scratched from the bushes. We gave goats and chickens the fright of their lives……….they had definitely never seen a car in their lifetime before. The locals all gazed at us with a knowing look on their faces…they, and I, knew we were lost!!!! (Lionel maintained that he knew exactly where we were. (Yeah, right). At one point I had to get out of the car to lift a tree branch to allow us to pass underneath……… Bounce, bounce, bump, bump, through mealie fields, bush et al, there where no stalls and begging children along this road……..it would have been a waste of their time. I was making mental notes on how many days worth of food that we had, but, fortunately, 2 hours later we arrived on the EN1 and the rest of the trip passed by without incident. Thank heavens for the GPS.. Talk about the road less travelled!!! Now that we are safe and sound, don’t tell Li. but I quite enjoyed it.

I must admit to preferring the small villages to the towns, there is less hustling, filth and the people seem happier. It is also difficult to find camping spots that are secure. So, oh darn, we will just have to settle for a lodge. I have had my eye on the ‘Casa Rex Lodge’, it just sounded like my cup of tea, (and it is, they even have Earl Grey in the rooms) and guess what….I am just going to have to get used to sleeping in a king-size bed for one night, and a bath, what bliss!!! All this, and it is situated on a hill above the beach, just off the side of the harbour where all the boats and dhows leave and arrive for the islands. (Benguerra, Bazaruto etc.) A magic little spot. Wet had a delicious dinner where Lionel pointed out that I could have as much to drink, as late as I liked because I wouldn’t have to worry about dashing across to the ablutions in the middle of the night! What a bonus, ……the only challenge will be extricating myself out of metres and metres of mosquito net and I think I’ll manage that okay.. Of course there is also wireless internet, hence this blog now, while I have the chance.

There are some really confusing laws in Moz, and the one that puzzles me most is that there is a paint tax. If you paint your house then you apply for a permit and pay according to which colour you choose. Not too many painted homes about!!! The other is that the powers that be, are not encouraging people to develop camping sites, and are putting all sorts of stumbling blocks in the way to discourage it..

Ren, thanks for the tip about putting vanilla essence in the tank to improve the taste of the water. Guess what will be on our next shopping list.

I love getting the feedback through your comments, it makes me feel like I am not wasting my time.

I know that we will be going into wilder and less travelled territory soon and that the camping will be a lot rougher, but our car is going like a trouper and Lionel is very chuffed with the way it handles the off road sections, it has been really great in the sand, and the fuel consumption has been a lot better than expected. The trailer is also very comfortable and works really well ………we seem to have got into a routine where it doesn’t take long to set up and pack up. I guess we are as ready as we will ever be……………..